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Routesetting in the Modern Age

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I see trends. I see copy-cats. I see certifications. I see lack of experience and substitutions of certifications for experience. I see new holds. New walls. New careers. New "volumes." (We didn't used to call them volumes when we made them ourselves. Let's not pretend these are anything more than oddly-cut sections of plywood pieced together. And overpriced shapes made of plywood and paint.)  A certification is no substitute for hours spent playing around with placing holds and calling the sequences "routes." There is a lot of presumptuous crap being place on the walls in the name of "routesetting" and deemed as greatness when in actuality it is simply someone getting practice out of their ego spewing. Home walls are the place where routesetters are born. Gyms may pay if you sell it well and they buy your act. Build yourself an 8x8 wall in your [mom's] garage and BUY and a box of holds. Practice placing them. Stripping
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Norman Bouldering Competition 7 Pre-Set

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Getting ready for the upcoming Norman Bouldering Competition on Saturday, February 21, 2015 at 5:30 pm and Climb Up in Norman, OK. This will be the 7th in the series and the first competition at Climb Up. The Norman Bouldering Competition was created in 1998 as a means to get the local climbing community together for a day of climbing enjoyment. At that time we didn't have much in the way of wall space but we made the best of what we had. The first event took place in a small back room of a house where we'd built a climbing wall. It rained all day which would have put a damper on things because there wasn't enough room for everyone to stand indoors but we were all just so excited to be climbing that it didn't matter. The second location that day was across town in a garage climbing gym. The event continued for six events total with the last one held in 2004. Since then, the NBC took a hiatus as life changes occurred. But we're excited to have this opportunity to
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